PLAN A TRIP

Scotland: Edinburgh, the Highlands and a walk on the Old Course

Moody skies, empty glens and the home of golf.

Storm clouds over a mountain and loch in the Scottish Highlands

Scotland is a country of weather. The light changes by the minute, the mountains appear and disappear in the cloud, and a grey morning can turn into the most beautiful afternoon of the trip.

When to go

May to September for long days. May and June are often drier, with fewer midges than high summer. Pack for rain whatever the forecast says.

How long

Six to eight days. Two or three nights in Edinburgh, a day trip or overnight in St Andrews, then a few nights in the Highlands.

The green, steep-sided valley of Glencoe
The green, steep-sided valley of Glencoe

Glencoe and Rannoch Moor

The road north across Rannoch Moor and down into Glencoe is one of the great drives in Britain. Stop often. The pull-ins are there for a reason, and the views change around every bend.

A still loch reflecting wooded hills
A still loch reflecting wooded hills

St Andrews

The home of golf, an easy trip from Edinburgh. If you play, book the Old Course ballot well ahead. If you don't, walk the West Sands beach and the cathedral ruins, and on Sundays, when the Old Course closes to golf, walk the course itself.

The clubhouse and links at St Andrews
The clubhouse and links at St Andrews

Edinburgh

The Old Town and the Royal Mile, the castle on its rock, and the climb up Arthur's Seat for the view. In August the city fills for its festivals, so book early or come another month.

Good to know

  • Cars drive on the left, and Highland roads can be single-track with passing places.
  • Layers beat one heavy coat. Add a rain jacket, always.
  • In summer, bring midge repellent for evenings by the lochs.
Edinburgh rooftops stretching to the sea
Edinburgh rooftops stretching to the sea

Photographs from our own trips.

WHAT TO PACK

The short list for Scotland

Packable rain jacket

Weighs almost nothing and stuffs into its own pocket. You will need it.

See it on Amazon →

Merino base layer

Warm when it's cold, cool when it isn't, and fine to wear two days running.

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Waterproof walking boots

Wet rock, gravel paths and spray from the falls. Dry feet make the day.

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Universal travel adapter

One plug for the whole trip, with ports for a phone, a watch and a Kindle.

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Kindle Paperwhite

A whole library for the plane, the train and the rainy afternoon.

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MORE GUIDES

Places worth the trip

Ready to go? A travel advisor can put the whole trip together for you, from flights to the last hotel. Talk to an advisor.